I was visiting Gulmarg the second time, this one after a gap of a score and five years. Gulmarg in recent years has caught the fancy of the elite skiers, predominantly from Europe who fancy powder skiing here and the pro's get their thrills with the Heli-Skiing options. Our local guide informs me that that regular international skiers say that Gulmarg slopes give the European Alps a run for their money. Not a skier yet, so I have no way to rate Gulmarg and I choose to bask in this shared glory. Gulmarg, I am informed, is a non resident village. Primarily a tourist destination it is served by locals who live in the base town of Tangmarg. They travel to the hilltop daily to eke out their livelihood as tourist guides, horsemen and service oriented jobs in the few and increasing hotels of Gulmarg. It has the most breathtaking looking saucer shaped meadow which houses the world's highest green golf course. Maharani Shiv ji Temple built 1915 served as the Dogra Royal T