Lahori hospitality - The tabedar & his pede wali lassi

It was half past nine on a bright and sunny Lahore morning when three of us decided to set off from our luxurious abode at the Lahore Gymkhana, in our quest for the quintessential Lahori Halwa Puri and Alu Choley.

A few friendly enquiries and some calls to our local friends we were advised to hit the Old Anarkali Food Street. Our navigator and chauffeur Abbasi was glad we chose this area as he confirmed that this is where the local old timers would come and indulge in their matutinal gluttony.

House on Old Anarkali Street

Abbasi dropped us in the centre of the street and we started our perambulatory recce of the street. Most of the shops looked half open or rather half shut and on enquiring we learnt that we were late for breakfast as most of these eateries open just before dawn to serve breakfast to the pious just after their fajr namaz. A couple of helpful locals guided us to a seemingly busy eatery serving Samosa's, Halwa Puri & Choley.

Apu was not his usual self during breakfast and not completely delving into it. I later was to learn that he had earmarked sufficient belly and palate space to some inviting lassi at the halwai very close to where Abbasi had parked the car.

The stack of earthen dona's filled with luscious kheer and rabdi, piles of peda's, halwa et al had a natural pull effect on us gourmets. We started by ordering pede wali lassi - a generous blend of yogurt, hand churned with a long wooden churner garnished with soft and crumbled malai peda, served in foot  long glasses.

Make it large...Two large

In between sips of the 'to die for' lassi, I aisled up to chat up with the man on the till to enquire on what next to order. During the conversation, he politely asked of my origins and was delighted to know that we were visiting from across the border and visiting his shop. He unilaterally took upon himself the task of introducing us to some kulcha's from a neighbouring shop, which apparently make a combo with the lassi. He also sent over some more mithai to our table.

A highly satiated threesome arose from our table and I turned towards the till to pay for the goodies. The man on the till, whose name I regrettably cannot remember now, smiled and put his right arm towards his chest, close to his heart and said ( and I translate in English) : Sir, I am your tabedar. You are our honoured guests from across the border. How can I even think of taking money from you. Indians are my brothers, I hope you liked what we served.

He used tabedar , a word frequented by many more Lahori's when they spoke to us Indians . Tabedar has a Punjabi emotion to it that I can hardly even attempt to translate it into English as it would not do any justice. I however make a faint attempt and loosely translated, it would mean obedience, complaisant or some other word of a much higher emotional magnitude.

We had heard of the Lahori hospitality and today this morning, I was experiencing it, in person. All three of us were in a complete state of dumb struck amazement at the love and affection the ordinary Pakistani has for his Indian brothers in such people to people meetings.

I must add that throughout our entire stay in Lahore, we were accorded with so much love, warmth and hospitality and tabedari by the known and the unknown Lahori and it deepened my belief in brotherhood and the human race and a special lace in my heart for the Lahori's and their mehman nawazi.

Can someone ask the war mongers and shenanigans at both ends to make note of the dep rooted love the common people have for each other.

Humbled with your gesture, Sir

Shop E21 Old Anarkali Street